Issue:28 April 2008
Ingredient Integrity 101: What’s Inside Makes All the Difference

The performance of skin care products depends upon not just the ingredients they contain, but the amount, source and combinations used - something Malibu Wellness calls “Ingredient Integrity.” Formulating with synergistic ingredients and avoiding materials and compounds which either provide no benefits or worse, can cause oxidation on the skin’s surface, is critical to creating products that can target specific conditions and concerns effectively without adverse outcomes.

As someone who depends upon the proper performance of your skin care products, you should know something about the ingredients they contain and why they are included. In this edition of the Malibu Wellness E-Letter, we look at the makeup of Malibu Wellness EC Mode Oil-Less Moisturizer.

EC Mode Oil-Less Moisturizer is a non-irritating, non-acnegenic, non-comedogenic wellness moisturizing product that is intended to normalize sebum production and help to eliminate the appearance of symptoms associated with acne, acne-prone, oily, combination or other problem skin conditions.

To do its job, EC Mode Oil-Less Moisturizer must hydrate, enhance barrier protection, reduce or disperse oil on the skin surface and avoid causing any irritation or oxidation which could worsen sensitive or problem skin.

The ingredients chosen for inclusion in this formula are individually proven with regard to their specific characteristics and benefits, and some work particularly well in combination with others to produce additional benefits. Let’s start at the top:

Vegepol

This soy protein derivative disperses surface oils, controlling the flow of natural lipids over the skin. The result is a reduction in the appearance of surface oils and a more balanced, normal feel to the skin overall.

Coralline Extract

Naturally derived from red algae, coralline is a mineral rich extract which has been shown to increase microcirculation and oxygenation in the cells, reducing redness and acute inflammation.

Panthenol

Also known as Pro Vitamin B5, panthenol is a very effective humectant and moisturizer that helps to support natural hydration by creating a trans-epidermal seal. When mixed in formulas with Allantoin (see below), panthenol has been effective in the treatment of inflammatory conditions such as sunburn, other mild burns and minor skin disorders.

Allantoin

This botanical extract of the comfrey root has been cited for many beneficial effects in topical use such as its ability to increase the water content of the extracellular matrix and aid in the desquamation of dead skin cells, both which improve moisture content and promote smoother skin. Allantoin has also been indicated for wound healing because it appears to encourage healthy cell proliferation. It is soothing and protecting and has anti-irritant characteristics as well.

Tamanu Oil

Another historically significant healing compound, Tamanu Oil has long been associated with its anti-inflammatory, anti-neuralgic, antibiotic and antioxidant benefits, but it is considered unique for its “cicatrizing” capability, which is the process of forming new skin tissue. Because of this, it has shown itself to be effective on acne and acne scars, general wound scarring, stretch marks, psoriasis, minor burns, dry skin and a number of other irritating and inflammatory skin conditions.

Hawthorn Extract

This extract, from the stems of the Hawthorn plant, is recognized for both systemic and topical benefits. Studies have shown it to have anti-microbial properties which can help to reduce the severity of acne lesions or acne-prone skin conditions. Some ultraviolet photoprotective effects have also been suggested by studies showing decreaes in UV-exposure-related erythema on skin treated with Hawthorn Extract.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

There are many sources of Aloes, from different species of plant to the different substances derived from various parts of the plant. The juice extracted from the leaves of Barbados Aloe Vera has long been recognized for its soothing and skin calming medicinal effects, especially on sunburn, minor burns and irritations and even on more serious diseases such as eczema and ringworm.

To talk about what we don’t put in a product such as EC Mode Oil-Less Moisturizer would take an entire E-Letter itself. In simple terms, we avoid ingredients which can in any way clog pores, form a coating on the surface of the skin, cause irritation or redness which can lead to oxidation, or induce a reaction in sensitive skin - such as artificial fragrances, preservatives or colors - to ensure that the formula is synergistic, effective and works naturally with the skin for the best possible results.


Naturally Brighter Blondes
An Interview With Celebrity Colorist Patti Song About Getting the Best Out of Blonde

Celebrity hair colorist Patti Song does hair for some of the biggest names in film and television as well as for elite models. For people whose careers depend upon them looking their best, not only is great color and style a must, but their hair must be protected from overprocessing damage.

This month, Patti shares some of her secrets for keeping both natural and dyed blonde hair healthy.

Malibu Wellness: What is the key to brighter blondes and highlights without damage to the hair?

Patti Song: Very key in working with any blonde client - whether natural or not - is to combat discoloration from minerals in water. After three or four weeks of washing their hair, clients return with dull, brassy, discolored blondes and might ask to have more highlights pulled, which means more processing.

I encourage my blonde clients to use Malibu Wellness Actives Blondes Weekly Brightener every week whether at home or traveling. The Blondes Active removes minerals from the hair, which saves the need for additional highlights in most cases, so it avoids unnecessary damage; and you have to keep hair healthy, especially when it’s chemically processed. I have some clients whose hair will go two shades lighter just by using the Active.

Malibu Wellness: How does the Blondes Active affect processed blonde hair?

Patti: First, it keeps the minerals off the hair, makes the hair “cleaner.”


It removes brassy or ashy discoloration and reveals the sparkle in the hair by taking away the dusty chalky tones. Once someone starts to use this product, they will immediately see a difference. In fact, I often recommend that they do a half and half test (treating one side of the hair and leaving the other side untreated). When they do, they can clearly see the chalky tone on the untreated half.

Malibu Wellness: How does Blondes Weekly Brightener benefit unprocessed blondes?

Patti: I personally wish that everyone would use this Active, especially those with long blonde hair or who are trying to grow out their hair if it is a little weak. They should stay on the Malibu system because the mineral build up can make hair appear damaged and dry when it is not. They often end up having the stylist cut off what appears to be damaged hair unnecessarily.

Malibu Wellness: How do you personally use the Blondes Active in your work?

Patti: First, I heavily encourage my clients to keep it in their shower so they remember to use it every week. There is a great Shower Caddy that holds several of the single-use, waterproof packets which is ideal for keeping the product right in front of them.

I also encourage it for use on kids in the summer. Kids can get stringy, discolored hair that tangles and clumps. The Actives clean all this up as well as taking away the acid shine on kids’ blonde hair.

Sometimes in a pinch, when a client is rushed for an appointment and there is no time to do a professional Malibu Crystal Gel Normalizer, a Malibu Wellness Active can be a quick fix before doing color. The Blondes Active came in particularly handy recently when I was working on a television commercial where the model was required to have blonde highlights.

Looking closely, I could see that she had natural highlights; they had just been dulled by exposure to minerals in water. The model had virgin hair and was very concerned about damage, so I tried the Blondes Wellness Active rather than pulling highlights.

The Active revealed her natural golden highlights, lots of shimmer and sparkle and that made her, and everyone working on the commercial, very happy!

Malibu Wellness: What additional benefits do you feel Malibu’s Blondes Weekly Brightener provides?

Patti: Well, not everyone can afford to color, but if they use this Active under heat, they’ll get a nice treat: a positive color change and lightening just from demineralizing. A minute or two in the shampoo bowl can clean up highlights and, for clients who color, using this inexpensive treatment once a week can really protect their investment in color services.

This Active is also the answer to all of the old school products to get green out of the hair, such as violet shampoos which merely put a blanket over the problem, where the Actives actually solve it.

In my opinion, Malibu Wellness Actives have had a wonderfully positive effect on how professionals do their work and on the experience for the salon guest. No blonde, natural or processed, should go a single week without using his or her Blondes Weekly Brightener.

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